Balmer Lawn Hotel

Dogfriendly Magazine Review

Read our comprehensive review of this listing printed in our bi-monthly magazine.

Deb Bridges, with her dog, Ula, by her side, heads off to trek the New Forest in the company of the ever-present ponies

Balmer Lawn Hotel & Spa

Apart from being the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, autumn isa good time for a last getaway before the winter months set in. With this in mind, my dog, Ula, and I packed our bags towards the end of September for a short stay in the New Forest. It’s an area we hadn’t visited before so, even if the weather wasn’t up to much, it would at least be an interesting change of scene.From our home in Devon, a drive of around three hours saw us turning off the A31, to find ourselves plunged almost immediately into a vast expanse of open countryside, with the added bonus of ponies, ponies and more ponies! As an avid walker, it was hard to keep eyes front, with tantalising glimpses of footpaths leading off in all directions. Pootling along the long, straight roads, I also noticed plenty of well-marked parking areas and I later discovered, to my surprise, there are over 100 such parking places in the forest which are free of charge. Our destination, Balmer Lawn Hotel, is situated just outside Brockenhurst, which is the largest village, by population, in the New Forest. Arriving in Brockenhurst around lunchtime, I opted for a quick coffee and toasted teacake at The Buttery, before setting off on a six-mile circular walk, starting from the pay and display car park. Leaving the village, we passed the Watersplash, a ford where the ponies, cattle and donkeys who wander freely around the village often pause to drink. The route gave us a good flavour of the area, taking in Bolderford Bridge, before following a series of woodland tracks and riverside paths back to the village. By then, it was late afternoon and time to make our way to Balmer Lawn, a five-minute drive from the centre of Brockenhurst. The hotel dates back to the mid 19th century and my first impression was of a rather grand building, standing four-square in a lovely corner of the New Forest countryside.
 

All dogs are offered a Cumberland Sausage

Noticing Ula had managed to find some mud, on our largely un-muddy walk, I rummaged out my portable dogwash and a few towels. Within seconds of entering reception, I was enjoying my first taste of Balmer Lawn hospitality, when a friendly waiter obligingly filled the tank of my little dogwash with water of the perfect temperature for a canine princess. We were certainly off to a good start. With Ula looking presentable, in we went. And while the staff, who clearly love dogs, applied her with biscuits, I was able to take in the stunning decor, in particular the wide staircase on the far side of the lobby, pristine white against a background of bold colours. To the left was a grand piano and a glimpse of a formal dining area and, to the right, a large, less formal arrangement of tables and chairs, with comfy settees and armchairs grouped around a woodburning stove at the far end, beyond which was the bar. The rich colour palette is evident throughout, which makes the large space both cosy and inviting. Overall, you get a sense of a striking mix of traditional and contemporary styles, with some quirky touches here and there. Our room was on the first floor. Apart from the wonderfully opulent four-poster bed, I was struck by the feeling of spaciousness and by the light which was pouring in through the large windows, overlooking the lawns and cricket pitch at the front of the hotel. Here the colours were more muted and restful. The ensuite bathroom had plenty of shelf space, which is always a plus, and I found the shower to be pleasingly powerful and not given to unexpected shifts in temperature. A nice touch was a plate with two chocolates and a welcome message written in chocolate. For those with dogs, dinner is served in the informal bar area. There were a couple of interesting vegetarian dishes on the menu and I chose the pan-fried gnocchi with smoke-dried pepper purée, roquito peppers, ash-rolled goats cheese and caramelised onions. It was absolutely delicious. Dogs are also welcome at breakfast, in the same area. By this time, us doggy folk were pretty much one big, happy family and I wasn’t surprised to learn that many were frequent guests at Balmer Lawn, with some holing up and enjoying the indoor pool and spa facilities, while others were keen on shopping in the local villages. Everyone spoke highly of the food and breakfast was no disappointment. There was an amazing choice of continental and cooked options and every dog was served a freshly cooked Cumberland sausage. Ula thought all her birthdays and Christmases had come at once.

Spacious Bedroom

We’d arrived the day before to a mixture of sunshine and showers. But it seemed as if a switch had been flipped and, overnight, we’d gone from the last days of summer straight into autumn. The sky was heavy and grey, with the threat of rain to come, and a blustery wind added an extra chill factor. Undaunted, we set off for Hurst Castle, where a fort was first established by Henry VIII, with the site remaining in military use until 1956, fulfilling an important role through both world wars. From Key haven, it’s possible to walk the two miles along Hurst Spit to reach the castle but, being shingle, the going is tough, particularly for dogs. Luckily, from around the end of March to the end of October, you can take a short, scenic ferry ride instead. With the change in weather, we were the only passengers on the ferry but Hurst Castle turned out to be the ideal venue for a wet day, as nowhere is off-limits to dogs and you can spend time checking out the informative exhibits in the many remaining buildings. There’s even a small cafe, where dogs are also welcome.

Hurst Castle

Having worked up an appetite, we then drove the short distance to Milford on Sea and popped into The Paddle on the Green, where we (especially Ula) received a warm welcome from staff and customers alike. The Paddle offers an eclectic range of freshly prepared brunch and lunch options, such as smashed minted peas on homemade nut and seed loaf with halloumi, poached egg and rocket pesto. Of the cafes I visited during my stay, this was by far my favourite but do bear in mind they close at 2pm. Suitably refreshed, we headed for Exbury Gardens, where dogs are welcome and can enjoy a trip on the narrow-gauge railway. The leisurely ride was a great way to view some of restorative cuppa, before setting off on the short drive back to Balmer Lawn. I’d planned to venture out to one of the local, dog friendly pubs for dinner but, with the woodburning stove blazing away, the cheerful comfort of Balmer Lawn was too much to resist. And there was also the small matter of puddings. The previous evening, I’d spotted some mouth-watering desserts on the menu but just couldn’t fit one in. I decided to stay put, go for starter only, followed by dessert, and I can tell you the Strawberry Chocolate Mousse was worth it.

Steam Train Exbury Gardens

Next morning, we said goodbye to the doggy friends we’d made and checked out. And with only a relatively short drive home, there was time to do a bit more walking. Parking up at Beaulieu, we followed the well-marked and easy two-mile route to the historic, maritime village of Buckler’s Hard. This is another supremely dog friendly venue and, like Hurst Castle, a good place to visit on a rainy day. Ula and I spent some time in the museum before boarding the riverboat for a gentle cruise along the Beaulieu river. There is also a dog friendly cafe, The Captain’s Table. After retracing our steps to Beaulieu, we called in at The Beaulieu Bakehouse before hitting the road. I had a bowl of tomato soup while Ula enjoyed I don’t know how many biscuits, courtesy of the dog-loving staff. The New Forest is a great place to visit with dogs and Balmer Lawn makes an extremely comfortable and convenient base. There are walks right from the door and what I particularly liked was the feeling that dogs are genuinely welcome and can luxuriate with their people at the heart of the hotel. Apart from the lure of sunny summer days, perhaps followed by cocktails in the spacious conservatory, I can imagine returning rosy-cheeked from a winter’s walk to the warm embrace of Balmer Lawn’s cosy lounge and I think it would make a pleasant trip at any time of year.

Bucklers Yard

FACT FILE
Balmer Lawn Hotel & Spa
ADDRESS Lyndhurst Road, Brockenhurst, Hampshire, SO42 7ZB
CONTACT [email protected] or 01590 623116
PRICE From £165 for B&B or £205 for DB&B based on two people sharing a standard room. Dogs charged at £25 per night.
WEBSITE balmerlawnhotel.com